I think your bed is warping slightly as it heats up, which is normal. Set your bed temp to 105 for half an hour before starting your print and see if it still happens. If you have a V0 or other manually levelled printer, get the bed to 105 before levelling.
What are your bed temps for PLA and ASA? Does it still happen if you preheat the bed? If you rotate the print, does the rough spot follow the rotation?
DAK catalogs were wild. Each item had a magazine article length description that was clearly bullshit. But by the end you're certain that the constant emptiness you feel is from not owning the World's Best 16 Channel Stereo Graphic Equalizer.
An alkaline AA may have more capacity, but the LiPo has lower internal resistance and it's electrolyte is flammable. The worst the alkaline would do it shorted or punctured is get warm and poop out KOH.
I have an HL-2270DW and the toner low light comes on well before prints start washing out. Fortunately the toner life is tracked by a plastic gear on the cartridge, and it takes just a minute to roll it back. When it does run out, good third party replacements are under $20.
Other than niche Keysight gear that's has three layers of nameplates because it's '90s vintage NOS, LXI and USB-TMC have replaced GPIB.
The closest is the Convergent NGEN, but the one more people may be familiar with would be the TI 99/4a sidecar system.
@al177
@lemmy.sdf.org