Planning on finishing an ercf this year and going can for that so figured good opportunity to swap the hotend over, saved a substantial amount of wiring even compared to the hotend PCB I had, saved the wiring harness just to compare went for a usb can device over running can from the octopus pro, did want to swap the pro over to can as well but ended up keeping it the same instead of messing with reflashing firmware. Hotend has a little 3015 fan and a heatsink on the arm chip so cooling should be fine, looked up the datasheet and it's got a tjmax of like 120c and rated for ambient -40-80c so don't think I need to worry about it, if it's an issue I'll run a fresh air feed to it, will see how it likes abs in the summer shortly.

All in all, super easy swap over, definitely cleaned up my rats nest (though I still should cut the stepper wires to length, they hide in the imitation panduit I printed, it's neat enough to be serviceable and not be a hazard), used katapult (formerly canboot) and then flashed klipper onto the board, only minor issue is it uses these tiny jst connectors, like really small, btt ebb sb2209 and btt u2c usb can device, was a good resource to follow for any of the network interface configs that I needed to do and gave some good details on diagnostics.

0.2 owners, could you tell me how long your bed takes to heat from room temperature to 60 and 100°C please 😁

I've just about convinced myself that I need a voron trident to replace my current cheap bedslinger. Since I can't live with the small print area of the 0.2, that one is out of the picture although I was thinking of that first. I like the DIY and open aspect of them, but many of the kits I can get locally seem grossly overpriced at around 1700 euros for a trident or 2.4 kit that I have to do all the work on myself.

Is there actually any significant saving by sourcing all parts yourself instead of buying the kits? Anyone here have experience buying all the individual parts? Brands to go for or avoid?

How difficult would it be to increase the build plate size of a 0.2R1 from 120 to something larger like 200mm? I would be OK keeping the 120mm Z-axis print height

I've recently assembled a Voron Trident. When trying to home the printer, the stealthburner appears to be getting stuck before hitting the horizontal (x?) end stop. I can push it manually to the switch, but it feels tight. I don't know if perhaps the belt is loose or if there's something else I should be looking for. Movement seems fine outside of that one spot, so I'm not sure if it's the belt.

Any help appreciated!

Edit: Scratch that. Not the belt. The motor itself is stopping, so there's resistance from something that I can't identify.

Hi!

Anyone has some experience with the Voron 2.4 kits from Formbot? Are they okay to begin with Voron designs or will I regret it?

Thanks!