!consolerepair@lemmy.world
Anything and everything about retro and modern console repair.
If you've got a broken gaming console you are trying to fix, come here to talk about it. If you want to flex about a repair, post here. If you or your console's last lover did a non-destructive electronic mod to their console, or have a question about the options available or how to do it, you are welcome to post here.
If you suck at soldering, we still love you, but we might roast you.
If you did an extreme modification such as turning one of the few Nintendo Playstations into a Rubik's Cube, flex elsewhere. If you're trying to FIX a Nintendo Playstation that someone turned into a Rubik's Cube, post away!
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!consolerepair
@lemmy.worldSo I've mostly fixed up a 3DS picked up off eBay.
The last issue is an odd one. On boot it acts as though Dpad down is being held, the odd part is it only does this for about 5 seconds after boot, then stops and acts perfectly normal the rest of the time it's been booted. It's always about 5 seconds with or without any interaction
Once powered off and on it does it again.
The big problem though is if I boot to gm9 it won't stop and I suspect it is causing a freeze issue when attempting to execute a script
Anybody know what's up? I've already cleaned the pads with isopropyl
I have a nice pink (slim) PS2 with a broken optical drive that I’m trying to fix. I have a replacement drive that has an identical code to the broken one and that visually looks identical except that one of the ribbon cables is longer. I put it in following the instructions from iFixit, but the new drive does not seem to spin up (though it does move the read head, it sound like).
I put the old drive back and try again, with the same result. This is surprising because the previous drive could read CDs (PS1 games) but not DVDs, so I fixed it worse than it was before.
Does anyone have suggestions for where to start troubleshooting? What could have possibly gone wrong to cause this?
I recently replaced power connectors on two DSi XLs. Both couldn’t charge, and one worked on the battery while the other didn’t. I replaced the connectors and a dead charging circuit fuse on one of them (only one dead fuse).
Now both are dead, and one only has an orange flashing light like the power fuse is burnt when plugged in, while the other is just … no life.
New Power connectors all beep out just fine for continuity. All fuses beep out just fine. All ribbon cables are seated.
What the hell did I do or fail to do? Any guesses? My soldering was accurate, no stray touches, etc. Just wondering if there’s a common other issue that I might have overlooked beyond power connector & fuse replacement.
https://youtu.be/YUl1G0Pbv8I
► https://ifixit.com/tronicsfix► iFixit Manta Driver Kit: Amazon (paid link) https://geni.us/XQLwaW► iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit: Amazon (paid link) https://geni...
Hello fellow friends of Console Repair!
Today I'd like to ask for some ideas about an old Game Gear (the first one I ever recapped) as it is showing the "red light for one second and off" issue.
Basically, as this was my first attempt (and a successful one) at recovering a Game Gear, I knew I did not clean the board too well or properly removed solder before changing caps, so when I saw the issue, I removed all the caps, cleaned the board and changed the caps again for good measure. Still, the issue is still there.
So here is my fruit of my troubleshooting afterwards:
the voltages from the power board are correct (I tested as well with the working power board of another VA0 I have around, no change). And all the capacitors are of the correct value and polarity.
the issue seems related to the VBat circuit as I observed that:
I thought that the diode D4 might be faulty and replaced it, but in reality it seems it was just dirt, anyway, it's a new one now...
VRef at the power board outputs 1.26, but it arrives to the ASIC as 0.30V.
Finally, as part of the troubleshooting, I noticed that removing C49, the system works fine... After the removal of C49 all the voltages that were too low becomes higher, in line with the ones of the other working Game Gear.
So here my doubts that I hope someone might help me clarify:
What could affect VRef as in principle is directly connected from the power board to the ASIC? Following the schematics here, I don't see anything that should interact with the circuit, modify the current. Still, the removal of C49 normalizes the voltage to around 1.25V...
what could be the reason why the voltage drops when the capacitor C49 is installed?
I think it might be useful to share a couple of pictures of the relevant parts of the board, but I can share more, if needed.