I little while ago I bought a Christy razor. It’s a fun and interesting razor, fairly unique compared to modern razor. And, as I mentioned, you can’t get blades any more, as the Christy blade (which existed in a couple of variations) went out of production sometime in the late 30’s.
Some of you wondered if I couldn’t get another blade to fit.. and the answer; no, not really. And this is why:
First off, apologies for the glare in some of these pictures – taking photos of shiny blades can be difficult.
From the top: Common DE, GEM, Injector, and Christy blades.
No other blades are a good match – or even a partial match, for the Christy. It’s not just a matter of width and thickness, but more importantly of the inclined blade alignment cut-outs on the sides of the Christy.
The Christy compared to a common double edged blade.
You could trim a DE to match part of the outline of the Christy. However the slot means you can’t replicate the top part of the alignment cut-outs. And the cut-outs are also the blade stops, so there would be nothing keeping the blade in place. Nor would anything stop it from sliding too far forward.
The Christy compared to a GEM blade.
The GEM is the best candidate for conversion. But you’ll have to despine it, trim some of the top, do some very careful trimming of the length, and nibble a little for the shape of the alignment cut-outs. And even so the alignment won’t work, as the cut-outs on the GEM are too deep.
The Christy comparted to an injector blade
The injector blade seems to be a no-go from the start. Yes, you could trim a little to match the bottom of the alignment cut-outs, since the length is a good fit. But since the cut-outs are also the blade stops, you’ll have the same problems as you would with a DE.
So the question still remains; Where can I get a Christy blade today? I have this interesting old razor, and I can’t shave with it.
A little while ago I bought a Valet Autostrop, almost by accident.
Unlike some vintage razors, you can still get blades for the Valet. And since I consider myself a shaver and not a collector, I got some blades and gave the Valet a spin to see if it belongs in my rotation.
The jury is still out on that though. Yes, I have shaved with it for a week, but a few shaves isn’t enough to show me just how good the Valet is.
Of how bad, for that matter.
The Valet Autostrop in question
It is – mechanically speaking – a very interesting razor. The way it secures the blade is different. The way it aligns the blade is different – yet similar. And the blade itself is different too.
Then you have the whole “push lever to release blade holder so it swings freely”. It is there so you could strop the blade – hence the name Autostrop. The strop actually goes through the razor, and the blade swung in the right direction as you pulled the razor along the strop. The whole thing was highlighted in advertisements and animatronic displays.
Historically it is also an interesting razor. You could consider it an also-ran when compared to Gillette – but also compared to the GEMs and even Schick’s Injectors. It is more complicated than most other razors. The construction is mostly sheet metal. It requires it’s own blades. And yet it survived, unlike other also-rans like the Christy or the CURBO.
As mentioned, blades are still made for it – although you have a lot less choice in blades than you do for a DE or even an Injector blade. Some report using a de-spined GEM-blade in their Valets – I can see that in the early A, B, and VC1 perhaps… but in the VC2 and later you have to work around the alignment bumps. Bumps which, by the way, different between various models of the razor – but always lined up with part of the VALET name cut out in the blade.
A week of shaves with the Valet Autostrop VC2
As far as the shave goes… the Valet Autostrop VC2 is pretty middle of the road.
It is not great, but not terrible.
It don’t nip or scrape, but it is a bit on the mild side of things. Getting the angle right was a little tricky, until I realised that like my GEM razors you can simply place the top cap flat against the face. The left side blade stop has a small burr on it I probably ought to take a small file to. People tell me the FHS-10 blade dulls quickly, but I didn’t notice much degradation over the course of a week.
Will the Valet VC2 make it into my permanent rotation? How long will the blade last me? I don’t know.
I don’t know yet, that is. I’m heading into the second week of shaving with it. There might be a third.
We know how it goes. Peacefully puttering around on the internet, and boom: You accidentally bought two vintage razors. Earlier this week we looked at one of them, and today we’ll have a peek at the other. The other being a Christy razor.
Christy, like the CURBO, Diamond Edge, and others, were aiming for the low end of the shaving marked. Whereas Gillette and others were offering affordable razors, Christy’s razors were cheap or even free.
The seller had mislabelled this in their classified ad; the seller had it listed as an Gillette. It came in the original box, with a couple of spare blades.
My Christy is a very neat little razor. It is sleek and lightweight, and has a couple of interesting features.
The blade has a unique shape, as can be seen in the pictures. The shape of the blade can be traced to US patent 1,563,724, filed in 1921. The rest of the razor don’t match that patent though, but rather partly matches a 1927 advertisement for the Christy with a ‘massage bar‘. Apart from lacking the massage bar, that is.
The ears and angled cut-outs on the blades matches to bumps on the bottom plate. These bumps acts as both alignment guides and blade stops. Two raised ears on the bottom plate helps guide the plate onto the top cap. The top cap has a tab that is wrapped under it, which both hold the handle and – more importantly – presses the bottom plate up against the top cap. This locks the razor together securely.
The razor also came with two spare blades, wrapped in an old Gillette blade wrapper.
My best guess is that this Christy dates from between 1921 and 1927. But that is mostly based on the patent and the advertisement, so it’s a tenuis guess at best.
While there is nothing wrong with the razor itself – at least nothing that some soap and TLC can’t fix – I’m stuck as far as blades goes. To the best of my knowledge, no one makes Christy blades no more. Nor have I had much luck finding a guide on how to modify other blades to fit.
We’ve all been there. You are peacefully puttering around on the internet, and suddenly you’ve accidentally bought a razor. Or two, as I happened to do a couple of weeks ago. So let’s have a look at one of my latest accidental buys; a Valet Autostrop VC1. At least it was listed as a VC1 – right now I’m less certain, as the blade holder is a much closer match to the description of a Valet VC2.
From what both the internet and Waits’ Compendium tells me, the VC1 was introduced in 1922. It likely stayed in production until 1928, when the VC2 came out. The VC2 was manufactured until 1935. The VC3 replaced it, and was in turn replaced by the VC4 in 1940. Production seems to have ended in 1946.
The main difference between the VC2 and the VB2 – which was manufactured at the same time – was that the VB2 was supposed to be adjustable (according to Waits at least).
My Autostrop – whatever model it is – came in the original box. And with the original strap. But without any original blades, which I would never have used anyway.
Box has definitely seen better days, but it is a cardboard box that’s almost one hundred years old.
The strop has dried out, which is unsurprising, but looks to be in remarkable good shape otherwise. I am assuming some leather grease will soften it up if desired.
For being old, it is in quite good shape. A bit of grime, but not much in the way of plating loss.
The Autostrop has a blade holder that differs from pretty much any other razor I’ve owned. You have to swing the holder up and over – as you would if you were to strop the blade – before opening a flap. The top cap has a pair of studs, that aligns with cut-outs in the blade and flap. The blade holder is held in place by pressing the guard against it, controlled by the lever on the back of the head.
You can still buy blades that fit the Autostrop. The Feather FHS-10, to be precise. So I naturally bought some. If the razor could be shaved with, it should be shaved with – I’m a shaver, not a collector.
But that also means that a century of dust and grime had to be cleaned of…
The patent number referred to at the underside of the razor head is British Patent 184,808 by the way. The 1922 patent is the same as the US patent 1,492,246, filed in 1921 but not granted until 1924. It makes sense that the razor refers to the British patent, as they text on the underside of the blade holder flap refers to Autostrop Safety Razor Co Ltd, London, England.
Overall I’m very happy with the condition of the razor, and even happier by the fact that I can get blades for it.
Have a Double Edged razor you enjoy? Want to use your favourite GEM or other Single Edged blade? Fear not, Walter Althof^1^ patented the solution in 1923; An adapter that let you use a single edged blade in a double edged razor.
Well, more on than in. But even so, you could use your favourite single edged blade in on with your favourite double edged razor.
As to why you should is a completely different question. And one the patent text fails to address. What it does talk about though, is the position of your hand while shaving. To quote:
The object of the invention is to produce a device capable of being assembled with the ordinary safety razor of the double edge blade type to adapt said razor for use with a single edge blade. Further, safety razors of the double edge blade type support the blade in a position practically at right angles to the longitudinal axis or extension of the handle so that the handle must be held at substantially right angles to the surface to be shaved. Such a position is unnatural, and somewhat difficult for the hand of the operator to assume, and another object of the invention is to produce a simple and inexpensive device, capable of assemblage with a razor of the double-edge blade type that will support a blade in a normally inclined position disposed at a substantial angle to the plane perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the handle. Thus, a razor substantially of the character known as “hoe type” is produced.
The actual device patented is fairly straight forward. The adapter is little more than a bent piece of sheet metal.
Patent drawing for US patent 1,453,487
The adapter has a fairly complex shape, but should be easy to manufacture in a suitable press. Or it could – conceivably – be an extruded metal profile. The bottom part is concave to fit between the bottom plate and top cap of the razor. The upper part is shaped to hold the blade. A small flange (marked 16 on the drawing) presses the blade against the top cap and bottom plate.
The patent also suggests a special blade, with a groove about half way down the blade that will engage the top cap. But I can easily see using a GEM blade in the adapter, if the design is adjusted so that the flange would grip under the spine of the blade.
As designed, the adapter is suitable for razors using three posts for blade alignment. It should be possible to redesign it for other razors too, by replacing the three cut-outs with the same slot as a normal double edged razor blade has.
To use it, you would place the adapter on the razor, place the blade in the adapter, and tighten the handle. And that is about it. Just shave as normal, just remember to check the angle of attack.
I see no reason why the adapter shouldn’t work as intended. I just don’t see a compelling reason why you should use it. But even so.. if someone offered this for sale, I would probably buy one. Or two…
You can read the full patent text for the adapter to use SE Blades with DE Razors on Google Patents, as well as over on razors.click.
…in addition to being self-stropping. According to the advertisement, that is. Just how instantly adjustable it truly was is a different matter. I do suspect less so than the copywriter claimed.
Valet 1918 advertisement
By a touch on the adjusting lug you can vary the distance between the blade and the guard with supreme precision and accuracy, according to the toughness of your beard or the tenderness of your skin.
From what I can tell, the “adjusting lug” they are talking about is the lever you use to release the blade for stropping. Which means that if you use it to lift the blade away from the guard, the blade is less well supported for the actual shaving.
And I might be less tough and more tender… but I do not want to shave with an unsupported blade.
As for what an instantly adjustable Valet would cost you.. .21 shilling is 1.05 pounds, also known as one Guinea (British pre-decimal currency was weird). and if we adjust for inflation, that would be 49.39£ (57.70€ / 61.89$ / 670.05 NOK) today. Not a cheap razor, but not terrible expensive either.
Not only did Jacob Schick think up various repeating magazine razors – he also came up with the idea of a combined sales package and razor. Or, put another way, a razor blade dispenser with a built in razor. Or, arguably, a disposable razors that came with a supply of blades.
And the one I’ll discuss today isn’t even his first one… but the improved version.
Both versions of the combined sales package and razor aimed making a small and convenient blade package and razor that could fit in your vest pocket. Having looked at both, this version is smaller, handier, and requires less parts. Which is good when the whole point is to make it cheap. Or as the patent put’s it:
This invention relates to an improved article which forms a shaving unit and consists of a combined blade package and razor, the blade package being in the form of a sales package so that the article can be supplied filled with blades and has an opening through which the blades can be fed, one at a time. It is preferably made so that it will be difficult to refill it all this in view of the fact that a large supply of blades can be furnished with the package and the whole device is so cheap that when the supply of blades is exhausted the article can be thrown away.
The whole thing takes the form of a small aluminium box, about as tall as it is wide. The blade looks to be about the size of an injector blade. If so the sales package and razor would be about 4 cm (1 6/10 inches) square, and about 1 cm ( 2/5 inches) thick. It’s partly a machined aluminium lump, and partly sheet metal cover.
Patent drawing from US patent 1,767,707
One half of the package was a blade dispenser. A slit in the end allowed the user to slide blades. And a pair of springs and a plate kept pressure on the stack of blades.
The other half of the combination package and razor is, unsurprisingly, the razor. A guard is machined into the metal body that makes up the box. The sheet metal cover forms the top cap and blade retainer. The guard and blade is covered with a, well, cover.
To change the blade, the user would press on the back of the combined sales package and razor. This would bend the sheet metal cover into an recess machined into the aluminium body, which would bend the top cap up. A quick shake would release the old blade. The old blade could then be user to push a new blade out enough for it to be pulled or pushed the rest of the way. Another push on the back would oven the cap again, so the new blade could be installed.
All in all it’s a handy little package. And while it might be a little more awkward to shave with than most razors, it would still make for a handy travel razor. Or a neat razor to keep in your vest pocket, so you can have a quick shave when you need one.
I can also see this being cast from a cheaper alloy like zamak, of even from injection moulded plastic. The only real drawback I see is the awkward shape. That, and the fact that the market today is overfilled with inexpensive disposable razors.
You can read the full patent for Jacob’s combined sales package and razor at Google Patents.
Schick didn’t go directly from his first patent to the Type A. In between he patented a second repeating razor, that has a fair bit in common with the first patent.
Unlike the first patent, the second patent specifically mentions the use of a blade package. It extols the virtue of the package as a sanitary improvement. To quote:
The holder and the stack of blades in it form a unit that can be inserted into the razor without the user handling an individual blade either to in sort it in the holder or to place it in shaving position. The holder and the blades form an expendable unit so that the purchaser simply inserts the filled holder into the razor and after the blades are used up the holder is thrown away. This not only provides for economy in manufacture and saves time in using the razor, but it also guards against injury as the user need not handle an individual blade at any time.
Furthermore, this package insures a sanitary razor as when the packing of blades in a holder is done automatically the individual blades need not be handled by anyone from the time they are packed until they are used for shaving.
Conceptually there is not that much difference between Jacob’s first and second repeating razor. On both you manipulated part of the razor to make the top cap move back and forth.
But the devil is in the details, as always.
Patent drawing from US patent 1,584,811
Instead of twisting the handle back and forth, on the second patent you twisted the knob at the bottom. This moved – through a cam and a bell crank – the top plate back far enough that it would pick up a blade from the magazine. Twisting the knob further would cause the top plate would swing forward, ejecting the old blade and presenting a new one for use.
Or as the patent text puts it:
The means shown for operating the top plate consists of an arm 17 which is pivoted on a pin 18, this pivotal point being the center of the radius of the opposed faces of the top plate and the guard. The arm has an extension 19 which fits in a slot 20 in a collar 21 thus forming a cam on the end of the stem 22 the projecting end 23 of which is beyond the end of the handle and thus available for easy manipulation.
It will be seen from this that when the finger piece 23 is turned the cam groove 20 will actuate the finger 19 and this in turn swings the arm 17 which being secured to the top plate moves the top plate to the desired position. Suitable insignia can be placed on the finger piece or handle to indicate relative positions and directions of operation for placing the blade.
There are three major improvements, as I see them, in Jacob’s second repeating razor.
Firstly, the mechanism is a fair bit neater. Gone are the rack and spur gears, replaced by a cam and a bell crank. The back and forth motion is replaced by a full rotation of the knob.
Secondly, the blades are kept in a carrier. This means that the shaver won’t have to manipulate a stack of thin, razor sharp razor blades.
And thirdly, it just looks better.
The downsides are much the same as in the first patent. The head don’t fold, meaning it is less suitable as a travel razor. And the blade magazine is right up by the wet end… which could cause carbon blades to rust. With modern stainless blades, the risk of corrosion is much reduced.
My only concern is that the short end of the bell crank that rides in the cam track looks a bit flimsy. Apart from that, I would buy this razor if someone manufactured it today.
You can read the full patent for Jacob’s second repeating razor at Google Patents.
We all know that the Type A was the first Magazine Repeating Razor. But nothing gets created in a vacuum, and Jacob Schick filed a patent for his first repeating razor as early as 1921. And while it could hold a blade pack in the handle as the later types A through C, the main magazine was in the razor’s head.
As I’ve said over and over again, an invention is an attempt to solve a problem. And reading Jacob’s patent, it is clear that his repeating razor was aimed at simplifying the act of changing blades. To quote:
This invention relates to an improved safety razor which is adapted to use what are commonly known as wafer blades, that is, thin blades, these blades being held within the razor and adapted to be fed therefrom into shaving position when desired, and can be pushed beyond the shaving position for ejection or either to be replaced by a new blade or for the purpose of washing the blade and the razor.
The idea was both simpler and more complex than the later Magazine Repeating Razors. Unlike the later, the head didn’t need to rotate through 90° to be reloaded. On the other hand, the relatively simple plunger hadn't come into existence yet. Instead the top plate of the head was made to pivot, controlled by the twisting of the handle.
Patent drawing from US patent 1,452,935
As can be seen from the drawing, the handle can rotate in relation to the neck and head. A spur gear is secured to the stem the handle rotates around. This spur gear interacts with a rack that connects to the top plate with a pair of lever arms.
Twist the handle in one direction, the used blade is ejected. Twist it in the opposite direction, an edge on the underside of the top plate picks up a new blade. Return the handle to the centre, and you’re good to shave.
It’s a fairly simple system, and it has both good points and bad points compared to the later Magazine Repeating Razors.
On the plus side, there is no blade carrier as you’ll find on the later repeating razors. No carrier means you can’t insert it the wrong way… which incidentally means that you’ll jam up the inner workings. And you can keep a spare pack of blades in the hollow handle.
As for the negatives? Well, the razor head don’t fold, meaning this repeating razor is less well suited for travel. The blade stack is kept close to the actual shave, so you’ll risk corrosion. And unless there is a detent, there is the chance of the handle twisting as you shave.
I can see why Jacob didn’t put this repeating razor into production. The later magazine repeaters are both more convenient with their folding heads, and there was less risk of carbon steel blades rusting. At the same time I can see this razor doing okay today, with stainless steel blades and less focus on portability.
You can read the full patent text for Jacob Schick’s first repeating razor at Google Patents.
…at least if the old ad for the Bessegg blade is to be believed. Speaking as one of the menfolk, I’m inclined to agree.
I’ve talked about Bessegg before – covering both the blades and two ads for their razor. Today we have a blade advertisement, which according to the source is from 1935. The Bessegg factory operated from 1927 until 1961, so bare minimum the advertisement cannot be older or newer than that.
The Bessegg ad – talking to the menfolk
A quick translation;
We menfolk don’t like to buy “cheap”. We want something good – something first class – BESSEGG
BESSEGG BLADE
“The new quality” – 25 øre per blade – Norwegian and good
Cheap, in context, don’t mean inexpensive. It means something cheaply or shoddily made. And as one of the menfolk, I can attest that I don’t want a cheap blade in my razor – but I’m more than happy to buy inexpensive blades if they are good.
For context, 25 øre in 1935 is 16 kroner and 23 øre today – or 1.52 USD / 1.40 EUR / 1.20 GBP.
Per blade.
So not cheap in the more vernacular meaning of the word either.
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